Pete Takeda: Journalist & Mountaineer

An Eye At The Top Of The World wins 2007 Himalayan Literature Award

Oct 31, 09:50 PM | An Eye At The Top Of The World

An Eye At The Top Of The World has hit the bookstores and web. Last year it won the 2007 Kekoo Naoroji Memorial Himalayan Literature Award.

BUY THE BOOK HERE

The Himalayan Club, based in New Delhi, awards the Kekoo Naoroji Award in association with Naoroji family and Godrej Industries for the best book on mountains of Himalaya published during the year. The award ceremony was held in Mumbai India on March 29, 2007.

FROM THE JUDGES:

“The year was rich in the quality of submissions including  mountaineering anthologies by two different presidents of the Alpine Club. Resisting the temptations of these large format  generalized classics, the jury cleaved to the guiding principle  that the Award must be primarily Himalayan in its concerns. This allowed an outsider Tony Astill`s self-published book whose fulsome recreation of the 1935 Everest expedition from members diaries (remarkable for its untold story of more than twenty peaks climbed) to come from behind to enter the short list.

“The two leading contenders remained Peter Takeda`s thriller expose on the Nanda Devi nuclear caper and Durga Charan Kala`s biographical study of the legendary shikari “Raja” Wilson  of Harsil, the details of whose life have till now remained unexplored. Both these contestants are in the nature of enquiries and represent hard won, time consuming research. Part of their virtue lies in the open ended nature of their findings which stimulates further enquiries. Together they have filled a yawning gap in our knowledge of what till now were semi-legendary Himalayan events and characters.

JURY VERDICT
“Well written with crisp authority on both scientific and mountaineering matters Peter Takeda’s AN EYE AT THE TOP OF THE  WORLD is a survey of secret climbing expeditions to Uttarakhand in the 1960’s crafted with considerable skill. It combines in an expedition narrative the details of earlier clandestine climbs where American and Indian operatives placed and lost on Nanda Devi a nuclear powered spying device and replaced it with another (later recovered) on Nanda Kot. Radical in its concept, Takeda tracks down convincingly the planning and execution of this startling CIA operation, and has written a mountaineering thriller into the bargain. For years rumours have floated around the mountaineering fraternity and it is  fascinating to have a good many of them confirmed though their sequence may have been mixed up. Despite being written for a lay American readership and from an American point of view, this a sensitive enquiry and the author`s feelings for the Nanda Devi region come across as both intimate and real. Bound to be controversial, the book’s sober tone guarantees its uncomfortable disclosures and their presumed fallout on the environment will find a lasting audience. The jury is unanimous in according joint first place to this compelling story.”





20 Comments

JamieSep 1, 06:45 PM #

Congratulations on the site launch as well as the book. Well done.

petetakedaSep 1, 07:22 PM #

thanks jamie… how did it look in explorer?

eg — Sep 11, 01:44 PM #

bre bray, bro bra…

Yozo Takeda — Oct 16, 09:47 AM #

Congratulations on the Nanda Devi climb and the new book! Very proud of you.

JP — Oct 16, 12:55 PM #

Do you make more $$ if I order it through your website link or buy it at Neptune Mountaineering (or where)?

Pete TakedaOct 16, 01:36 PM #

“Yozo Takeda — Oct 16, 08:47 AM #
Congratulations on the Nanda Devi climb and the new book! Very proud of you.”

Thanks! For that alone, it was worth it.

Pete TakedaOct 16, 01:41 PM #

“JP — Oct 16, 11:55 AM #
Do you make more $$ if I order it through your website link or buy it at Neptune Mountaineering (or where)?”

JP – its less a matter of more money, than any! If you order through my site, then you’ll save 30% and I get a small commission through Amazon. If you buy through Neptune’s, you’ll pay full price, but if you show up at my signing on the 26th of November, you’ll get it signed. I think it is very well worth it to support a local business like Neptune’s.

Kathy WesterhoffDec 8, 09:34 PM #

Hello Pete,
I’m happy to hear that we had a couple of great shows! Thanks again for sharing your presentation with Fort Worth and Oklahoma City. I spoke with the managers after the completion of each show and there was nothing but great comments, everyone was impressed with you and we are definitely interested in hosting future shows at the rest of our locations.

Kathy Westerhoff
Backwoods
Marketing Director

Michael D. Clarke — Apr 4, 10:56 PM #

Dear Mr Takeda,

My expedition was on Nanda Devi in 1978. Because of Outside Magazine
writing an article about the nuclear device our trip was nearly cancelled.
Unfortunateley our LO was killed in a fall. Later we were arrested for 3 days. See Himalayan Journal Volume 33. I have wriite a book about my various trips, “Travels in Far-Off Places”. One chapter recounts our 1978 expedition; 6 members made the summit.

Cheers, Mike Clarke

China HandMay 1, 12:32 PM #

Hi, Pete,

e-mailed you a couple times through the contact form but didn’t get any reply so I’ll see if I have better luck through the comments. Loved the book, congrats on the award. I’m finishing up a review article on EOTOTW and Conboy’s book, and I would like submit some questions by e-mail. Any chance of that happening?

Pete t — May 1, 02:58 PM #

Dear Mike Clarke,
I’ll jhave tp look up that trip.Cretainly an interesting sidenote in the whole history of Nanda Dev. I’ll need tio get your book!

pete

Pete Takeda — May 1, 03:03 PM #

Dear China Hand,

That’s weird, others have been getting through via my contact page – as recently as yesterday.

Feel free to submit anu questions to: petetakeda@comcast.net

Thanks for the interest! What publication is this for?

Pete

JP — Jun 25, 02:26 PM #

The video is stunning, Pete—If I was a movie producer, I be on you like flies on shit. JP

Pete Takeda — Jun 26, 11:59 AM #

JP –
Thanks for the comments on the video – produced by Rattlecan Films www.rattlecan.net. I can’t wait for the flies to start landing!

Pete

DH — Jan 25, 03:37 PM #

The data are misinterpreted to sell this book. Pu-239 was “detected” but not Pu-238. Pu-239 is everywhere due to worldwide fallout. Pu-238 is what fueled the spy device. If that wasn’t detected, then the source of the plutonium was not that device. Analysis actual data show that no plutonium at all was detected. This book should be pulled from the market and Marmot should pull its sponsorship for sensationalizing false information. Mr. Takeda is unethical at best and stupid at least.

Pete T — Feb 12, 08:54 PM #

Ha! DH, before sticking your foot in your mouth, please

1) Read the book.

2) See:http://www.petetakeda.com/journal/new-tests-refute-pu-in-silt

3) See: http://www.petetakeda.com/journal/plutonium-in-takedas-ganges-tributary-silt-sample

You might rethink your statements. Free to post an apology any time…

Pete Takeda

Rajat Basu — Mar 22, 06:30 PM #

Congratulations Pete on the success of your new book. I havent come across it yet, but I aim to buy and read it soon enough.
On the other hand, I have read “Spies in the Himalayas” M.S.Kohli and Kenneth Conboy’s account of the CIA sponsored expedition.
I had a small clarification to seek. For someone who has written a book on the same topic as well as successfully climbed Nanda Devi East (let 200 metres not take away from the effort) perhaps you are uniquely qualified to answer that.
In your opinion would it have been possible for the nuclear device to be carried across the ridge linking the main peak of Nanda Devi to its eastern peak. If yes, then as an alternative to climbing the main peak, why did Kohli not consider approaching from Nanda Devi East since he was already familiar with that climb having successfully summitted in 1964. If that was possible it would have considerably eased the logistics as entry from the Western side needed more time and resources – and time was at a premium when they launched the first expedition.
Perhaps your book answers that. However I would still like to hear from you.
Thanks and Regards
Rajat

JillApr 6, 04:40 PM #

I remember you from the 4 Seasons Restaurant in the 80’s in Yosemite. Good to hear of your success.

Pete Takeda — Apr 29, 01:19 PM #

Dear Rajat,

Thoughtful question.

Nanda Devi East is probably more difficult an ascent than Nanda Devi itself. Getting across the difficult ridge – I believe three kilometers long – was a hug feat, finally accomplished by a 21 member Japanese team in 1976. Their multi-pronged logistical buildup and arduous effort – 40 years after the first ascent of either summit – points to how hard it would have been to get a listening device up to the main summit.

Incidentally, a team of Indian military climbers disappeared last fall on NnadaDevi East. Sadly, no trace has been discovered of the missing climbers: http://www.indianexpress.com/story/224538.html

Pete

ken winkler — Jun 30, 03:33 PM #

Dear Mr. Takeda

I wrote you c/o your publishers to no avail. I just read your book last week and was quite suprised.
You see, about 25 years ago, I started to research the same disappearance of that SNAP generator. In fact, when you described how you first head about it from a valley climber, I swore you were talking about the late Chuck Pratt—who first told me about the issue. In fact, he gave me a few names to write queries to, and the silence I received from them was quite loud.
In 1979 and again in 1985 I was researching in Almora and heard from some of the expats and the dissidents who lived there speculation about the device being stolen. So, I looked around, talked some more, read, and the more I dug, the more uncomfortable I became. So, I left the matter alone.
Your book has changed all this. Interesting, I was in the India Peace Corps in the mid 1960s and my director was Dr. Charles Houston, the doc on Tilman’s expedition. I work for A16 in West LA part-time and occasionally run into people who wander about the Nanda Devi area.
Thanks for all the work you’ve done. I will read some of your secondary sources and see what I can pick up. I’m not going to be running up there withtechnical devices, but I am considering a novel about the generator and possible ramifications of it being taken. I’ve written two books about the area already and have two more being sent around in NYC. We shall see.
Keep up the good work. There were passages in your book I felt were stellar, and really spoke about what being in India means. “Diesel, curry, dung, smoke,incense—the scent of three thousand years…” boy, isn’t that the truth. I lived in a village for two years there.

Ken Winkler

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